Installing AWR Racing Engine Mounts

Hopefully, this will help a bit in your installation of the AWR Racing engine mounts on your ND. I really like them. I have the 88 durometer bushings in mine. They do add some shimmy and shake (NVH) but not anything that will loosen bolts or cause your teeth to chatter. They are brilliant on track. Shifting is a bit better and the general feel on track is much improved.

Tools you’ll need:

  • Ratchet
  • 16″ (or more is better) of extensions
  • A socket universal joint
  • Hydraulic jack to raise engine from below OR Engine Load Leveler Support Bar to lift engine from above
  • Jack stands
  • Jack puck would be great
  • This page from the Service Manual will be of help

You can use wrenches too in some places if desired. You access the one bolt that attaches the two mounts together from the top. That is where you need the long extensions. Here is a photo of that top bolt. It is both on the new and old mounts.

Installing the Engine Mounts

  1. All the bolts except for that top one can be accessed from the side after removing some little plastic shields.
  2. After removing the top bolt, lift the engine in a safe place with the jack. I used a large 2×8 on the oil pan that covered the entire bottom of the pan. This provides a large surface area so the pan won’t get damaged.
  3. Put a jack stand in place in case your jack lowers itself over time.
  4. Once you lift the engine far enough to clear that top bolt you can remove the top/bottom mounts and replace them.
  5. Install the upper mount and tighten it down.
  6. Install the lower mount but leave the lower mount very loose. Give yourself a 1/4″ of play with all the mounting bolts if possible.
  7. Leave the bolt going through the bushing very loose.
  8. Lower the jack onto the new mounts. With the loose lower bolts and bushing bolt, you can wiggle things around to get the upper onto the lower without messing up any bolt threads.
  9. Tighten the lower bolts.
  10. Attach the top nut (45-50 ft-lbs)
  11. Then tighten the horizontal bolt through the bushing last (55-60 ft-lbs). If you tighten it before lowering, it can be harder to get everything to align.

Here are photos I took during my installation that might help.

UPDATE: I have since installed their header heat shield. One of the bushings in my engine mount melted from the header heat. AWR supplied a new bushing and a beta version of their heat shield. I installed it and it solved the problem. If you have headers, I strongly recommend their heat shield.

Heat Shield
Heat Shield In Place

3 thoughts on “Installing AWR Racing Engine Mounts

  • Scott Moore
    February 26, 2024 at 5:42 am

    Thanks Kent. Thanks for advice and this write up! Scott

  • Peter
    September 11, 2023 at 11:24 am

    Hi Kent,

    Thanks for another very detailed blog about engine mount installation. lol It seems after your feedback the heat shield has became part of the package on the complete mount system option. All very nice, just wondering what do you think about the 88 durometer bushing? Because the Fab9tuning website is recommending 62 durometer, was wondering if you can provide some comments on your experience? I understand your build is more track focused, but I assume from time to time you might still need to drive it on the road. Do you think 88 is about right? or if you would choose again would you choose a softer one 70 maybe or even 62?

    Thanks for your time!

    • KentBigDog
      September 11, 2023 at 12:44 pm

      If the track experience is your primary concern, the 88 is the way to go and still be drivable on the street. My car was built as a no compromises track car. The fact that you are writing this tells me it would be too stiff for you. The car does shimmy and shake, like my Harley. For street use, the 62 is the way to go. For combined city/track with a bit of shaking being acceptable, the 70 is probably a good choice.

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